Tarkine Drive Guide & the 7 most amazing highlights to see
Keep reading to find out about where this water-filled sinkhole is on the Tarkine Drive ©
The takayna/Tarkine is the world’s second-largest temperate rainforest on Earth, and the largest in Australia.
By Esta Pinto.
As an ecological sanctuary for a diverse range of wildlife including 60 threatened species, from iconic Tasmanian devils, spotted-tail quolls, Tasmanian wedge-tailed eagles, pink robins, grey goshawks, masked owls, echidnas, the world’s largest freshwater crayfish and so so much more, the Tarkine is one of Australia's most cherished natural landscapes. It ranges from rainforests that are millions of years old, inclusive of ancient ferns and myrtle trees, colourful fungi and vibrant lichen, plus a coastal area full of towering sea cliffs, dramatic rock formations, secluded beaches and more.
The coastline also harbours some of the richest Aboriginal heritage in Australia from ancient giant shell middens, seal hides, rock carvings, hut depressions plus other artifacts which make it one of the richest human archaeological zones on the planet.
Before we begin, I wish to acknowledge the traditional and original owners of the Tarkine, the Tasmanian Aboriginal groups who called this place home and pay respect to those that have passed before us and and pay my respects to Elders past, present and emerging. I honour the uninterrupted care, protection and belonging to these islands, skies and waterways, before the invasion and colonisation of European settlement. I honour their stories, songs, art, and culture, and their aspirations for the future of their people and Tasmania/lutruwita.
However before we get any further, we should probably discuss the unavoidable truth of the matter.
Despite its extraordinary ecological value, the Tarkine faces ongoing conservation challenges.
That’s because the largest temperate rainforest in Australia is not a national park, nor World Heritage listed… That means it is not protected and consequently over 90% of it is under threat from mining, logging and other human atrocities. If you’re as bamboozled about that as I am, don’t worry, everyone is.
Basically, a ludicrously greenwashed unsustainable company named “Sustainable Timbers Tasmania” is responsible for forest management… Yet there is nothing sustainable about them—irony at its most soul-destroying.
“This forest is superb and includes the most beautiful natural fernery I have ever seen. Some ferns are centuries old and the giant Eucalptus regnans backed by the snow-topped Mt Field make this a place of enormous tourism potential. It is being turned into a squalid pile of smashed branches and mud,” says Bob Brown.
If interested, you can learn more about that at the Bob Brown Foundation or via this incredibly moving Patagonia documentary.
Okay, enough of the heavy stuff. If you’re planning a visit to Tassie’s Northwest and looking to learn more about this wild and wonderful natural treasure that is the Tarkine, keep reading. If you’re on a limited timeframe, I’ve also highlighted what areas you should try to prioritise seeing.
Where is the Tarkine?
You can find the Tarkine in the Tarkine region of northwestern Tasmania, Australia.
Despite not having recognised and mapped borders, the Tarkine region is generally agreed to be located in an area bordered by the Arthur River to the north, the Pieman River to the south and the Murchison Highway to the east.
Tarkine Drive map.
Below you’ll find the Tarkine Drive map, an easily accessible loop to explore by car. You can also check out more information here.
How long does it take to do the Tarkine Drive?
You could in theory complete the drive in one day. However, you’d be pressed for time trying to cram it all in. To experience it best, at a comfortable pace, so you can stop and do a few walks and not feel rushed, I’d suggest at least two days, three if you want to see everything and complete all the longer walks.
For example, on day one, you could cover the rainforest area from the Trowutta Arch to the Balfour walking track or Kannunah Bridge. Then on day two, you’d be able to comfortably and leisurely explore the coast from Marrawah and Greenpoint Beach to Couta Rocks and Rebecca Lagoon.
Can you do the Tarkine Drive in one day?
As mentioned previously, you can certainly cover the whole drive in one day. However, you’d have to get up at the crack of dawn and return by nightfall. Even then, you would be rushing it, you’d have to prioritise and plan which walks and sights you’d like to spend time at, and which ones aren’t so important to skip over.
Part of the drive encompasses some awesome rugged and wild coastline and while I was certainly impressed with it’s raw beauty, I was more drawn to the rainforest. Maybe it’s because I see a lot of stunning coastlines and perhaps I’m a desensitised soulless sod.
My recommendation to you would therefore be to prioritise the rainforest area if you truly only have one day to see it so you can spend more time there doing the walks and surrounded by mossy breathtaking magic. I still certainly recommend checking out the coast if you’ve got the luxury of two to three days in the region.
7 unforgettable attractions to see on the Tarkine Drive.
Everything on the drive is majestic, so you won’t fail to be impressed no matter what. However, this is my humble opinion on what sights mesmerised me most and will stay in my memory for a long time.
Trowutta Arch.
Trowutta Arch. ©
Trust me, if you had to pick only one place to visit because you were limited in time, the Trowutta Arch is a strong contender for the most jaw-dropping place to see.
The Trowutta Arch is a rare, naturally occurring arch that was created by the collapse of a cave and the creation of two sinkholes on either side of it—one dry and one filled with water.
This photo showcases the water-filled sinkhole, which is geomorphologically classified as a cenote and is one of the best examples in Tasmania at more than 20 metres deep and one of the most iconic stops.
To get to the Trowutta Arch is an easy flat 1.1km return walk through a dense canopy of callidendrous rainforest, housing an incredible range of tree species, Myrtle Beech, being the dominant range.
2. Sinkhole.
Sinkhole in the Tarkine. ©
It’s another tranquil, water-filled sinkhole with captivating reflections and flora.
This sinkhole is something you’ll drive past on the route, so remember to be vigilant and keep an eye out for the signage so you can take in its utter magic.
3. Julius River.
Julius River. ©
Another one of the personal highlights for me was the Julius River and the surrounding walks. We hung out with pademelons, were wowed by bright purple and orange fungi, mosses, lichen, and endemic leatherwood trees and were mesmerised by the Julius River itself. Make sure you stop here, you won’t regret it.
At Julius River, there are two equally magical nature walks to explore.
Julius River walk.
An easy 30-minute short and ethereal walk follows the winding tannin-stained waters of the Julius River.
Sinkhole and Myrtle Forest walk.
This easy one-hour return walk will lead you through a path of giant myrtle beech forest peppered with crater-like hollows.
4. Lake Chisholm.
Lake Chisholm. ©
An easy 30-minute striking short walk through a mixed forest of giant eucalypts and rainforest species will lead you to another breathtaking flooded sinkhole, Lake Chisholm. It’s one of the many sinkholes in the area, but one of the only few that have filled with water.
Rumour has it that if you’re lucky, you might spot a platypus. (Sadly we tried our hardest to spot one, but didn’t).
5. Sumac Lookout.
Sumac lookout. ©
Stop at Sumac Lookout for an incredible vantage point over the majestic Arthur River and the surrounding cool temperate rainforest. This is a quick stop and an easy 5-minute return walk to the lookout.
6. Kannunah Bridge.
Arthur River view from the Kannunah Bridge. ©
At the Kannunah Bridge Picnic Area, you can find another closer perspective to take in the raw and rugged rapids of the Arthur River.
7. Edge of the World.
My favourite part of the coastal area was the Edge of the World and one of the areas I would recommend stopping at to appreciate as one of the highlights.
Bear in mind that rainfall is higher than average on the western coast of Tasmania so be prepared. We were lucky enough to experience the coastal area on a cold but partly cloudy day.
FAQs.
How to get to the Tarkine Drive.
Not too far off the beaten path from Stanley and Smithton, the Tarkine Drive can really only be accessed by car.
If you’re coming from outside the state of Tasmania, here is the best way to get there.
Fly, then drive.
The closest airport with direct flights from most major airports to the Trowatta Arch is Launceston Airport.
However, you could also potentially fly into Burnie Airport, which has incoming flights from Rex, Sharp and Qantas Airlines. Burnie Airport has direct flights from Melbourne, or you could change from a connecting flight to Melbourne to get to Burnie Airport.
From either of these airports, you could hire a car and drive to the Tarkine.
Sail, then drive.
Of course, for people who might want to use their own car or motorhome instead of hiring one, you can always bring it over from mainland Australia via The Spirit of Tasmania.
Don’t have one? You could always consider joining a Tarkine tour.
Is the Tarkine Drive sealed?
Yes, the Tarkine Drive is sealed, although there are some side routes to phenomenal attractions such as the Trowutta Arch or Milkshake Hills parts which are unsealed, yet well-maintained and manageable to drive on.
Is the Tarkine Drive clockwise or anticlockwise?
It is whichever direction you wish.
I experienced the drive in a clockwise direction, beginning with the Trowutta Arch on day one, ending at the Kannunah Bridge and headed back to Stanley for the night.
On day two, we drove in a counter-clockwise direction, beginning from Marrawah and heading down the coast of Tasmania to check out The Bluff, Edge of the World and more.
Basically, I recommend tailoring the drive to your timetable over one day or two and how you’d like to break up the drive.
Where is the best place to stay if you’re visiting the Tarkine/Takayna?
Camping
In terms of proximity, Julius River is the closest campground to the Trowutta Arch/Caves State Reserve but is suited for motorhomes and campervans only, not tents. You could also consider:
Tall Timbers Tasmania, located on the outskirts of Smithton, which offers free RV parking.
Stanley Recreation Grounds
Marrawah Green Point Beach Camping Area
Arthur Pieman Conservation Area
Lodging
Known for ‘The Nut,’ Stanley is a great, character-filled town to base yourself in if you’re exploring the Tarkine.
Marrawah is also a cool little coastal town with great surf, which sits at the edge of the Tarkine wilderness.
Arthur River is situated on the drive and closer to the raw and rugged coast rather than the forest. Still, it’s a nice place to base yourself if you’re doing the Tarkine loop.
Smithton is also super convenient in terms of proximity, although personally, I stayed in Stanley as the vibe was more up my alley.
How far is it from Stanley to the Tarkine?
It’s approximately a 45-minute drive from Stanley to the closest attraction, which is the Trowutta Arch. There are a few different routes to get there, but this one is the most straightforward:
Take the Bass Hwy/A2, C217 and follow the signs to the township of Trowutta. From there, follow the signs to the Trowutta Arch.
The trail for the Trowutta Arch walking track begins on Gun Road, at the Trowutta Caves State Reserve.
